While Corrine attempted an Individual Time Trial of the Cross Washington Mountain Bike Route, I had some free time between dropping her off and picking her up on the other side of the state. I knew I’d mostly be hiking. We decided against me bringing my bike to save the expense of a bigger rental car. Also, since I had tweaked my hip on a bike ride the week before we left, I figured hiking was my safest bet. I had planned to do some birding, but I enjoy moving and exploring so much it’s hard for me to stop long, so I didn’t do much.
DAY 1 – LOW AND HIGH HIKES
After an early wake up, a breakfast of cold pizza, and dropping Corrine off in La Push to start her race, I took a couple of hikes before heading to Port Angeles to visit friends and hopefully see Corrine there.
SECOND BEACH – My first hike was to Second Beach. (Corrine started at First Beach.) The hike to the beach was only about a half-mile, but the beach is about 1.5 miles long and I hiked the whole of it. I enjoyed hiking along the ocean, something we don’t get to do in Fairbanks. I saw a few birds and tidepool creatures, like sea stars.
Mainly, I was kind of blown away by all the tents on the beach. I counted more than 50! Coming from Alaska, I often have a hard time getting my head around more populated areas. We were miles from Seattle and a half-mile hike off the road. Where did all these people come from!? Fortunately, they were all at the north end of the beach where the trail comes out. I didn’t mind the tent people, but it was nice to hike the empty south end of the beach.
Sea stars and other weird things on a rock on Second Beach |
PYRAMID MOUNTAIN – I drove part way to Port Angeles and hiked a 3.5-mile trail up to a lookout cabin on Pyramid Mountain above Crescent Lake. Loved this hike! It is almost all up on the way to the lookout but most of it was fairly gradual. And it was shaded, which was nice because it was a warmer day. I felt good and hiked hard.
The views from the lookout are outstanding, well worth the trip. I found I had cell reception, so I checked on Corrine and found she was at that moment biking the Olympic Discovery Trail right below me! I had crossed it on my way up, but I didn’t have time to wait for her. I sent her a text and then headed back down the mountain.
Crescent Lake from the lookout cabin atop Pyramid Mountain |
PORT ANGELES – I drove to Port Angeles, where spent a couple of nights with Eric Evans and Loraine Lovejoy-Evans. Eric and I have been buddies since we were kids, especially in high school. He has gotten weird, though. Now he plays bagpipes!
Loraine is a physical therapist, for which I was immensely grateful. My tweaked hip flared again after the Pyramid Mountain hike. Loraine showed me a stretch she called Horse and Thinker. (It's in her book.) It required me to splay my legs and lower my head to my knee. I’m sure I looked weird, but it helped a lot.
Early that evening I drove to the Port Angeles seafront and met Corrine, who was at a convenience store fueling up on junk food. But she wanted “real food,” so we went to a nearby McDonalds. Then she headed off for Sequim and I headed back to Eric and Loraine’s.
Corrine downs a Coke (not a Diet Coke) at a Port Angeles convenience store before heading to McDonald's for some "real food." |
DAY 2 – LOW-KEY HIKES
My tweaked hip was bothering me, so I didn’t try anything big. Eric and I went for a 3-mile hike with his dog by the town’s airport, a hike he does regularly to stay in shape. We spent a lot of time chatting and catching up on life. We hadn’t visited in years.
Eric serenades me with his bagpipes before our hike! |
After lunch, Eric took a nap (he’s been fighting cancer and needs his rest) while I went for a hike on Ediz Hook, a sand spit on the cost of Port Angeles. It’s narrow and has a road, but you can hike the inner beach or a trail between the road and beach. I hiked the beach one direction and the trail in the other. Along the way I outraced a gaggle of swimming Canada geese, talked to a woman about her toe, and let a guy borrow my phone. His car had died and then while trying to diagnose the problem, the car hood fell onto his phone. Ouch! While hiking I stopped periodically and did the Horse stretch, which helped a lot.
The inner beach of Ediz Hook, including the geese I outhiked |
DAY 3 – SPITTIN’ TO THE LIGHTHOUSE
Dungeness Spit called to me. Corrine and I had hiked partway out it on our way to the coast. While there we learned the spit, which is in a national wildlife refuge, was just over 5 miles long and that you could hike to a lighthouse near the end.
I started beneath clouds, but soon hiked out into sunshine. Even on a somewhat cloudy Tuesday, there were still quite a few people where the trail from the parking lot meets the beach, but I lost most of them after hiking a mile down the beach. Still, I was surprised at how many people were willing to make the 10-mile roundtrip. I saw two or three dozen people on the beach and at the lighthouse. I had to say it again: Where do all these people come from?
I hadn’t done my research, so I was surprised to find that the lighthouse (the New Dungeness Light Station) is a historic district with several buildings, one of which has a museum. They even have tours. I poked around a bit, learning some about the lighthouse, but I was still considering a quick hike up at Hurricane Ridge in Olympic National Park, so I headed back, doing the Horse stretches periodically.
One of the interpretive signs at the historic district |
I gave up on the Hurricane Ridge hike because I was running out of time, and it was spitting rain back on the mainland. I stopped at gas station to fuel up and ran into Eric and Loraine! They were heading to the Seattle area to visit relatives. We had all forgotten to take the requisite selfies while I was visiting, so we took them at the gas station then said our goodbyes. I headed to picturesque Port Townsend, where I had booked a hotel room.
Gas station selfie! Eric called that his "drug dealer shirt"! |
DAY 4 – MY WIFE IS TOO FAST!
I missed Corrine! I had planned to meet her at the Snoqualmie Tunnel, a more-than-2-mile-long feature of the Palouse to Cascades State Park Trail, which runs across most of Washington. (Corrine rode a lot of it.) I had miscalculated Corrine’s speed, so I missed her by about 15 minutes. I went for a short run on the rail-trail to test out my hip. I had originally planned to run through the entire tunnel, but I knew if I started, I would want to do the whole thing. I wasn’t sure my hip was up for that, and I wanted to get to Cle Elum before Corrine did.
Some kids were taking a field trip to the Snoqualmie Tunnel. I could feel the cold air blowing out from here! |
I got to Cle Elum in time and met Corrine, who chowed down and resupplied at Safeway. The Cross Washington Mountain Bike Route has a low route and high route that split in Cle Elum and meet up again in Wenatchee. Corrine figured the high route would be more scenic, but that she had a better chance of finishing on the low route, which had much less elevation gain. She decided on the low route and headed to Ellensburg.
Corrine scarfing down food at the Cle Elum Safeway. I got to watch Corrine scarf down a lot of food during the trip! |
DAY 5 – A LITTLE EXPOSURE
I decided against seeing Corrine in Wenatchee and went biking instead. A little town just northwest of Cle Elum called Roslyn has a bike shop with rentals and a bunch of mountain biking trails. Roslyn rang a bell in my head, and I finally remembered that it was the setting for a long-ago TV series called “Northern Exposure” about a fictional Alaska town. Cool!
I think this painting was featured in the opening of "Northern Exposure." |
I rented a bike and got on the trails right out of town. I rode up Ewok, a 3.5-mile trail with 1,300 feet of elevation gain on the XWA high route. Had she not done the low route, Corrine would have had to make that climb the previous afternoon. In the heat of the day. On tired legs. On a fully loaded bike. Ufda! I decided she made the right decision. The trail climbed nicely, but it climbed and climbed.
The view from View Rock atop the ridge above Roslyn. |
And it had gorgeous views of the Cascades on top! I dropped back into town, had lunch, then climbed another trail to the ridgetop again. I saw only a handful of people on these trails and enjoyed the solitude. I dropped back into town, returned the bike, and had a couple of beers before heading back to my hotel. I highly recommend Roslyn, a quiet, picturesque town that’s touristy but not too touristy. Nice trails, but they are challenging.
How I felt climbing Mixtape in the afternoon. Ugh! Too hot and I was already tired! |
DAY 6 – MORE VIEWS
I did a shortish hike/run out of Cle Elum before heading to Othello, where I planned to see Corrine again. The Cle Elum Ridge Trail is mainly for dirt biking, but it was a pretty good hike. It runs along a ridge to the southwest of Cle Elum and has some great views. It parallels a forest service road, so I decided to try running the road on the way back. My hip did OK, so I was pleased. The run wasn’t anything special, but I did see a pileated woodpecker. Gorgeous birds!
One view from the Cle Elum Ridge Trail |
That night I drove out to meet Corrine as she approached Othello and saw her again at the hotel in Othello. She took a shower, scarfed down food, and tried to sleep for few hours before a big push to the finish. I got up and saw her off at about 3 AM then tried to sleep a bit more.
Corrine stops briefly just outside Othello |
DAY 7 – PLANS, THEN NEW PLANS
I had planned to do a hike in the Columbia National Wildlife Refuge just north of Othello when Corrine sent me a text: “I wonder if we should consider seeing if we can change flight home to later or to early in July4 so I can be sure and finish?” So, instead of hiking, I headed to Ritzville to meet Corrine at a truck stop and discuss our travel options.
The truck stop just off I-5 was a holiday weekend zoo. Just as we met up, friend Linda and her partner Constance showed up. Linda is also a bikepack racer who had been following Corrine’s progress. They were on their way to the Tri-Cities area. So, we visited while changing our travel plans while Corrine resupplied and fueled up on a truck stop burger (“real food” again!). With all the other activity, no one noticed our little corner of chaos.
Corrine with Constance (left) and Linda (right) at a Carl's Jr. at a Love's truck stop in Ritzville |
After everyone left, I found a hike on the way to Spokane and headed that way, though I had to turn around almost right away when Corrine texted that she had lost her driver’s license. She found it by the time I drove back, so I turned toward Spokane again.
After some difficulty I found a trailhead near Fishtrap Lake though I wasn’t sure the trail would lead me to the lake. I started hiking through grassland punctuated by copses of trees and rock outcroppings. The area had lots of birds and flowers. Just as I was about to turn around, the hike dropped through a canyon and into more trees and higher rock outcroppings. It was there I saw that the rock was old lava. About that time, I remembered my Gaia app. I had cell service, so I turned on the app and discovered a whole network of trails in the area with some to the lake.
I hiked out to and along Fishtrap Lake seeing pelicans, other waterfowl, raptors and swallows. One scenic viewpoint was on a cliff that dropped at least 50 feet straight to the lake. Looking over it gave me the willies! I wanted to explore more but it was hot (around 90), and I needed to get to Spokane, so I headed back.
One view of Fishtrap Lake |
DAY 8 – CORRINE’S FINISH
At Spokane, I ate dinner, bought the finish-line snacks Corrine requested, and got to bed. I got in a good chunk of sleep before waking at about 3:30 AM. I checked her progress and was out the door a little after 4 am. I was able to meet Corrine a few miles from the finish before driving to Tekoa.
Corrine pulled in a few minutes later, elated to be done. Unofficial finish line greeter John Heaton, a biker and farmer who lives in the area, graciously offered a hose at one of his nearby farm buildings, so we cleaned Corrine’s muddy bike before heading back to Spokane. Then I broke down her bike, packed it away, and we started the long drive back to Sea-Tac, as I constantly sipped on coffee in order not to fall asleep at the wheel!
Corrine tries to lift her bike above her head (she really needs to work on her upper body strength!) |
Oh wow, Eric! It’s fun to see all the things you packed into your trip. You and Corrine make the best “this is miserable” faces! I’m always amazed, too, going to the lower 48, where all the people come from. If there are more than two cars at a trailhead here, it’s “crowded.” Thanks for sharing your half of the story!
ReplyDelete-Andrea
Thanks Andrea! Traveling down there always makes me appreciate the solitude we can get up here.
DeleteYou two make an amazing team. As impressive as Corrine's feats are, I know she couldn't do it without your extensive support. And I had wondered how you cleaned the bike before packing! Thanks for all the details.
ReplyDeleteYes, I'm lucky to have Eric as my partner in crime! He always supports my crazy plans and especially loves if he can do his own thing while I do mine and then just pick me up at the finish!
DeleteThanks! Yep, I get to explore while Corrine gets to do crazy stuff on a bike. Works out well!
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