post by Corrine
That season was always my favorite while growing up in Michigan. I have so many fond memories. Bluebird skies with crisp, cool temperatures. Leaves crunching underfoot. Outings to the apple orchards to drink cider and eat donuts. Friday nights in the marching band at football games. And especially the riot of colors. Orange oaks, red maples, and yellow birch trees.
Alaska doesn’t have big apple orchards. And I was long past marching bands. Alaska also doesn’t have oaks and maples. What would there be to love about Alaska falls? Would it be a bland season made even more bland by a monochrome scene of yellow birch?
I’m so happy I was wrong. Yes, fall in Interior Alaska comes early and is fleeting. But it is stunning in its own way. I think that early September is the best time of year to visit Alaska. I love that unforgettable distinct smell of high bush cranberries. Seeing the cranes and waterfowl gather at Creamers Field and then take off to migrate south is amazing. Night finally gets dark enough to once again see the auroras. And the colors, especially if you get into the tundra, rival anything you might see in the Midwest or Northeast.
Time to Go to Denali
So, as autumn came upon us, it was time to go to Denali National Park where autumn colors are fabulous. But it wasn’t the fall colors that had me planning a bikepacking trip over Labor Day weekend. Those were just a wonderful side benefit. The park was calling for several other reasons.
First, it would be a good shakedown trip. Eric and I would soon be heading out on the Klamath Mountain Loop, a 330-mile bikepacking trip recently developed by Adventure Cycling Association. Joining us on that trip would be Nikki and Jay, so I invited them to Denali. An overnight bike to Igloo Creek Campground would give us the perfect chance to check out our bikes and gear.
Second, there looked to be a small window of good weather over the weekend. The week prior had been cool and rainy and the week after was going to be more of the same, but there was a day-and-a-half in which it might be halfway decent. I felt we should take advantage of that.
Third, the new 475-foot steel truss bridge over the Pretty Rocks slide area was finally open to minimal traffic, including foot and bikes. The park road has been closed at mile 45 since August 2021 due to landslide activity. For years the land had been slipping slowly downhill, requiring continual maintenance. But then the slow landslide started accelerating rapidly –from inches per year to more than half an inch per hour – making safe vehicle passage impossible. The road was closed and a plan to cross the landslide area with a bridge was fast-tracked by Congress. Now, the bridge is done. It won’t be open for buses until next season, but hikers and bikers can cross it now. We wanted to see the new bridge and bike across it.
And, of course, there is the autumn scenery. Labor Day weekend is generally when the fall colors peak in Denali. We have made numerous trips over the long weekend in the past, but it had been several years. It was time to experience fall in Denali again.
I contacted our other Klamath Mountain bikepack buddies, Nikki and Jay. Nikki and her husband Mike were on board with doing an overnight in Denali. Jay said that he and his wife Nancy had already planned to be at Igloo Creek campground that weekend and that another friend of ours, Tom, was also joining them. It was going to be a fun group to camp and bike with.
Biking to Igloo Creek Campground
By the time Sunday morning rolled around, our group had changed a bit. Jay and Nancy had bailed due to Jay feeling a bit under the weather. Tom had biked in the night before. But Nikki and Mike were still coming Sunday, so we met them at the park entrance and started biking.
First up was the 9-mile paved uphill climb. It’s quite the grind but we had a nice tailwind. Personal vehicles are allowed on the first 15 miles of the park road, and it was more crowded than we expected. I guess everybody was taking advantage of the decent weather and fall colors. Fortunately, most people driving in the park are polite about sharing the road with bikers. Still, we were happy to lose the traffic when we crossed the Savage River where all vehicles except the park buses and a few others turn back.
| So many cars and people out enjoying the nice fall weather |
The climb up from Savage River had us stopping in awe several times. We reveled in the beauty of the mountains and tundra. Bright yellows, glowing reds. I kept exclaiming what an amazing day it was. We stopped for lunch at a pullout just as two tour buses pulled up and the passengers piled out. But we found a nice quiet spot to eat. Then a crowd led by a guide came around the corner. Oh well, so much for a quiet lunch time. They spotted a caribou on a distant hillside on the other side of us. We felt like we were part of their viewing experience in the park! Alaskans grazing on Alaskan Subway sandwiches!
| Were we part of the viewing experience for tourists as we tried to have a quiet lunch? |
They watched the caribou for a bit but finally moved on. We finished our lunches and hit the road. While seeing a lot of tourists is common in Denali, we were surprised at all the bikers we saw. There’s always a few, but biking has become very popular on the park road. We must have passed about 50 bikers on our way in. Many were out for the day, some on e-bikes. Others were doing multi-day bikepack trips past the bridge where buses were still not allowed to travel. We stopped to chat with a few of them. Everybody was enjoying the spectacular day.
| A couple of bikers that we stopped to chat with along the way |
After crossing the Teklanika River our tailwind turned into a headwind, but it didn’t dampen our spirits. A few miles later, we arrived at Igloo Creek Campground at mile 34.6 and unloaded our bikes and set up camp. Eric and Mike decided they had done enough biking for the day and opted to stay in camp rather than bike to the Pretty Rocks bridge. (They ended up doing a nice hike from the campground.)
To the Bridge and Back
Nikki and I still wanted to ride out to the new bridge, so we got back on our bikes, which felt so much lighter without all the bikepacking gear. We cycled up Sable Pass and then down towards the East Fork of the Toklat River where the buses turn around. We ran into our friend Tom who had ridden from Igloo Campground out to Eielson that morning and was on his way back. He told us about a biker who said he had been chased by a wolf for about a mile. Interesting! It almost seemed a little scary, but wolf attacks on humans are incredibly rare. We guessed the wolf was more curious than aggressive.
The climb up Polychrome was longer than Nikki and I remembered, but it was well worth it to see the new bridge. It is an amazing structure. We tried to remember how a road used to cut across a slope which has now mostly slipped downhill. It’s hard to believe now that a road used to be there.
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| It's hard to believe that there was a road here once! |
It was getting late so after a few pictures we headed the 12 miles back to camp. Climbing up to Sable Pass a second time had me complaining but mainly because of the headwind. We had had a headwind coming up the other side. How is that fair?! But even double headwinds didn’t take away from my joy of a great day of biking. When we got back to camp, Mike, Eric, and Tom had just finished eating. They quickly heated water for us, so that Nikki and I could hungrily dig into our freeze-dried dinners.
Biking Out
While our trip was mostly without drama, we did have a little bit in the morning. Someone had seen a bear out on the road. A few people went up to take a look. Mike even got a photo of it. It walked off and everyone headed back for breakfast at the covered eating area. As people were finishing up breakfast, Eric came back from the getting water at the creek and said in a relaxed tone: “Well, there’s the bear.”
We looked up to see a bear coming out of the woods about 20 feet from the covered area where we were at. It continued to saunter past us and into the woods toward the creek, while we called to a woman who was still at the creek. She hurried back to the group, but the bear wasn’t interested. It crossed the creek and headed off into the woods. It happened so fast that none of us got a photo! We were glad we got to see it up close and that it just continued on.
| Igloo Creek |
The ride out was uneventful and Denali even peaked out a little from the clouds. Headwinds started to pick up the closer we got to our car but weren’t too bad. And we all enjoyed the last 9 miles, which were now downhill for us!
| Denali peeks out from the clouds |
It ended up being a spectacular weekend in the park. The weather was even better than predicted. The colors of the birch and aspen were brilliant yellow and the tundra glowed with reds and oranges. I’m so glad we went. A trip to Denali National Park in September reminds me of how much I love Alaska autumns.























