My Age--And My Stupidity--Revealed on Long Hike Near Central

 

Post by Eric 

It’s getting harder for me to do stupid things. At least, with minimal consequences. 

 

This past Saturday I did a moderately hard hike. And I am suffering for it. My lower back is really sore. It takes me a while to stand up straight after sitting for a bit, so I do a lot of hunched-over walking. 

 

I wasn’t in shape to do the hike. Not by a long shot. I hadn’t done a run or a hike in more than a month. (Except for a test run last Wednesday to see if my sore knee was up for the hike.) I had done some biking, but that takes different muscles. My last run of 10+ miles was in January. My last hike over 10 miles was last summer. 

 

But I’ve done things like that in the past. Sure, I suffered a bit, but not like this. And not for as long. I suppose the problem with my back might have something to do with the herniated disc I got earlier this year, but that seems fine. This ache feels very different. And, of course, I’m now 66 years old. Friggin’ age!

 

Enough bitching. Let me tell you about the hike. 

Portage Creek Road to Miller House Road 

 

This little adventure started a couple of years ago. Nikki and I had been texting back and forth about doing new adventures. I told her about a route that I had traced years ago on a map connecting ridge lines between Eagle Summit and Ketchum Dome behind Circle Hot Springs. Nikki was intrigued, so we started talking about doing it as a run. 

 

Mike, Nikki's husband, is a fish and wildlife trooper and pilot. He had flown over and been in that area many times. He knew much of that route had an ATV trail. At some point, we pivoted from running my original route to mountain biking a slightly shorter route. Mike thought it would be possible and was interested in coming. Corrine hadn't been interested in the run, but she was interested in trying it on bike.

 

That plan was to bike from Portage Creek Road (the road that runs past Circle Hot Springs into the hills south of the old resort) along the ATV trail and then down the mining road to Miller House (a location along the Steese Highway on USGS maps that used to be a roadhouse). We figured it was about 24 miles.

 

Two years ago we gave it a shot. 

 

The First Attempt

 

That attempt was fun but wasn’t successful. We weren't quite sure where the route started off Portage Creek Road, but we did know that an ATV trail took off from the high point of that road where it crosses a path and headed in the right direction, so we took that. That lead us up a really steep trail to the top of a low dome. The dome wasn’t high, but it was a massive hike-a-bike. From there we could see the ATV trail we were supposed to be on way down below us. It leaves Portage Creek Road about a mile farther from where we started. There wasn't much of a trail connecting our dome to the main trail, so we rode and walked our bikes down the tundra-covered side of the dome. 

 

We were delighted to reach the ATV trail, but it had taken us over an hour to travel the 2 miles to get there. (Hiking the main trail to that point took just 20 minutes.) We were finally able to ride for a bit, but soon we were pushing our bikes up another steep hill. Then another. Then another.

 

We went another 4.5 miles before deciding to turn around. We had gone 6.5 miles in three hours. Not knowing what lay ahead, we weren’t sure we had enough time, food, and water to go another 16 miles. You can read a report of that trip HERE.

 

This Attempt

 

Me hiking with Mike. Photo by Nikki

For our second attempt, we decided to hike. We shortened it up a bit by planning to drive up the Miller House mining road and camping where the ATV trail took off, then driving one vehicle around to Portage Creek mine road. We figured the hike would be about 18 miles. And by “we” I mean Nikki, Mike and I (and two of their dogs). Corrine decided against doing the hike. Something about not being in shape for that long of a hike. She was glad of her decision after her ancient, bent-over, limping husband got home. Friggin’ age! Friggin’ stupidity!

Our camping spot off the Miller House mining road

This time after reaching our previous endpoint, we pushed on. 

 

The ridge hiking was nice. (And much nicer on the uphills than hike-a-bike!) We occasionally dropped into boggy, buggy saddles. Some were more boggy than others, but all were buggy. Often, we were out of the wind in those low points, so the bugs got to be really annoying. But then we would hike out of the bog into a breeze, and the bugs would be mostly gone. 

Look closely and you can see all the bugs

At one point, Mike pointed out how bizarre it is to be hiking on top of a ridge and be in a swamp. I remembered puzzling over that after moving to the Interior from Southcentral. The mountains around Anchorage and on the Kenai Peninsula have a few swamps up high, but they are small. Nothing like Interior ridge swamps. If you haven’t experienced any yet, hike the Granite Tors Trail. That has a dandy swamp up top.

One of the not-too-wet swampy areas. I forgot to take a pic in the bad swamps!

The day was mostly nice with scattered clouds. At one point the sky started spitting, and we could see the shower coming toward us. We put on rain gear, but the rain lasted only about 15 minutes. When it was over, we quickly peeled. It wasn’t particularly hot, but it was too warm to wear rain gear while hiking unless you really needed it. 

Nikki the optimist still has her sunglasses on!

 

Wildlife

We saw quite a few ptarmigan, but I got only this lousy photo

Outside of many bugs, we saw only a few birds, though several ptarmigan. It’s amazing how you can hike a ridge in Interior Alaska with views for miles and not see any big or even biggish animals. They are out there, but they are spread out over a vast area.

 

That said, we did see something awesome the day before. We left at different times from Fairbanks and met up at the Pinnell Mountain Trailhead on Eagle Summit. Nikki and Mike got there just a bit before me. They pointed out a herd of caribou on the south side of the Steese Highway. At first, I saw 20 or 30 silhouetted against the horizon and was impressed. Then I realized the animals were spread out over the flanks of the dome. There was probably a thousand or so! I’ve seen caribou in that area before, but not in numbers like that! We could hear them grunting. Then they started moving. They ran across the tundra, and many crossed the Steese Highway just to the west of us. Surprise wildlife sightings like that are awesome! 

Bou!

After the Hike

 

We did the hike in a little over 7.5 hours. According to Strava it was 17.7 miles with 3900 feet of elevation gain. Mike said he was sore. Nikki didn’t say, but she stays in good shape. I was sore but not too bad. 

 

Then we got in their truck and headed to Central for dinner at the roadhouse. Apparently, during the drive my age caught up with me. I found out when I got out of the truck. My sore knee, which had done mostly fine on the hike, was hurting. And my back was so sore I couldn’t stand up straight. (Probably because I had used hiking poles. I’ve used poles plenty of times, but I hadn’t used them for months.) 

 

As we walked into the roadhouse, I was hunched over and limping, trying hard not to moan and groan too much. (Nikki and Mike were doing fine, but I insist on pointing out that both are quite a few years younger than I am.) When I shuffled into the restaurant, I half expected some kid to point me out.

 

Mama, look at the limping, hunched over old man! Why doesn’t someone put him to sleep? That’s what they do with old dogs!

 

Friggin’ age! 

 

Of course, if I had been wise like Corrine, I wouldn’t have done the hike, but I also wouldn’t have been hurting. Friggin’ stupidity! 

 

Aftermath

 

Pic by Corrine

The next day, Sunday, I didn’t feel too bad. I even went on the FCC Sunday Brunch Ride, which ended up being over 18 miles. I was sore and tired and having a hard time straightening up, but otherwise I was OK. I was on the mend! 

 

But by Monday I wasn’t much better. I had planned to hike 4.7 kilometers with Corrine at Jane Lanford’s 47 years of running marathons party, but I quickly realized I wasn’t up for that. Instead, I putzed around Alaskaland.  And Tuesday I was worse. Corrine and I went out for a couple mile hike to loosen up my back, but we turned around after a half mile. Now, it’s Thursday and I’m still nursing my aching back.

Pic by Corrine

Am I really that old? It was only back in 2021 that I did my Big Fat Stupid Hike. That one was 79 miles with 19,000 feet of elevation gain. I used poles then too. I didn’t really train for that one either, though I was in better shape for that one than I was for this one. Maybe five years can really make a difference. Friggin’ age!

On my Big Fat Stupid Hike when I realized I had accidentally backtracked

Corrine has asked me if she should remind me of this the next time I come up with some similar stupid plan. I told her of course. 

 

But I also told her I might not listen. After all -- friggin’ stupidity! 

One more pic from the hike

July's Bikepack Every Month Challenge

I cranked up the hill feeling strong. Not as strong as I would like, but finally feeling recovered from my Canadian biking adventure two weeks before. 

I passed Eric, who stopped to clear some brush out of the trail. He was doing it partly to be a good citizen and partly to take a break from the 2-mile climb in the 80-degree heat. Biking up behind us were Nikki and Mike and two of their dogs. The dogs were moving well, but Nikki and Mike didn’t want to run them too hard so that they wouldn’t overheat. 

We were headed to the Upper Angel Creek Cabin in the Chena River State Recreation Area for a quick overnighter. We were all out for a nice weekend getaway. I was also ticking off another night for my quest to fulfill the Bikepack Every Month Challenge. 

Bikepack Every Month Challenge

In April, I had signed up for the challenge, created by Kurt Refsnider, an ultra-endurance cyclist. Since I had been traveling most of June, including a hard 8-day bikepack adventure in the Canadian Rockies (which fulfilled my June bikepack challenge), I wanted to do something easier and closer to home for July. 

Nikki knows about the challenge and asked to join me on my July trip. I saw that the Upper Angel Creek Cabin was available and that the weather forecast was good, so we started making plans for Saturday night. The summer trail to Upper Angel Creek Cabin is only 10 miles, so it’s fairly easy to do it as a sub-24-hour adventure. Mike, Nikki’s husband, and Eric were also interested in coming along. 

Not all adventures need to be long or hard. Sometimes it’s just nice to get away for a little fun with friends. Because it was only 10 miles to the cabin, we could leave Saturday late afternoon and be back home by lunch on Sunday. A great way to get away but still have time to get things done on the weekend, too.

Pizza First! 

Another advantage of a late start is that you can carry less food. We met around 3PM at the Wagner’s Pizza Bus for a late lunch/early dinner. It’s at around mile 24 of Chena Hot Springs Road and is definitely worth a stop if you are out that way. While ordering pizzas we saw that Wagner’s also offers milkshakes. Yum! Each couple ordered a small pizza and a milkshake to split. Good calories to fuel us on our way to the cabin. We each kept one piece of pizza to eat at the cabin. 

Wagner's Pizza Bus, just off of Chena Hot Springs Road.  Well worth a stop.

With no dinner and no tents to haul, our bikes were lighter than they could have been. Doing a quick overnight trip like this makes it a lot easier to get out the door!

Challenging Trail in Places

We finally started biking at around 4:30 PM. It was quite hot, around 80F, and we felt it on that first 2-mile climb. Eric found quite a bit of brush to cut. Nikki and Mike took it easy so their dogs wouldn’t overheat, stopping at all the puddles and creeks for them to drink and cool off. That made it easier for me to keep up. I’m definitely slowing down with age and more tentative with technical terrain. I’m not happy about it, but it is what it is. I still love getting out there and that’s what counts. But needing to go slower for the dogs helped me feel like I wasn’t slowing everybody else down.

The trail is really brushy in places. Eric limited his brush clearing to the “worst of the worst,” or else he would have stayed out there all night. But even though the trail was sometimes brushy we were able to bike those parts. You just had to do a bit of dodging branches. 

The trail is quite brushy in places

And I’d forgotten how rocky and technical parts of this trail are. And how many creek crossings we had to navigate. I remembered just one, but there are three or four. I had to walk some of the rocky sections, which are almost always in the drainages. Even Eric found them really challenging, but he likes challenging. A couple of times he whooped after successfully navigating a section. He and Mike charged through all the stream crossings. I was more cautious, but that didn’t save me from getting wet feet. Nikki was in between – more cautious than Mike and Eric, but more daring than me. The dogs of course, loved the streams! 

An Impromptu Walkabout

It wasn’t long before we were crossing the bridge over Angel Creek and biking up to the cabin. We checked out the cabin and discovered two things: It was hot inside and the windows had no screens. We debated what to do and finally decided to open the windows and door, letting the cabin cool and the bugs in. We figured we would just go on a bug-killing spree before bedtime. 

After sorting out the sleeping arrangements, we sat on the front deck relaxing and sharing stories. After a while, I felt a little antsy and decided to walk around the cabin site. I started up the 4-wheeler trail behind the cabin, planning to go just a short way. Before I knew it, I was climbing further. I decided to go just far enough to get a good view. I would turn around in 15 minutes. But there was no view at that point, so I decided to go a little further. And a little further. I knew I should have told the others what I was doing but I didn’t know I was going to go that far until I did! 

They grew a little worried when I had been gone for about 45 minutes. Eric was pretty sure I had done exactly what I did. He knows me well. (He even guessed correctly that I wouldn’t have started my Strava right away and would be bummed about not recording it all!) But they weren’t sure. The only thing they knew was that I had disappeared without a word. 

Nikki checked out the trail to the ridge, and she would have found me if she had gone farther or I would have turned around earlier. But neither of those things happened, so she turned around without finding me. Then all three started down another trail, but as the trail got rougher and didn’t climb anywhere, they guessed that I hadn’t gone that way. Just after they got back to the cabin, they saw me coming down the ridge trail. 

The trail behind the cabin that leads to the ridge

Sorry to worry you guys, I know I should have told you what I was doing and invited you along, but honestly, I had no idea that I was going to head up towards the ridge until I was doing it!

By the time I got back at 9:30 PM, we were all ready for bed. And good thing, as it started raining and continued for about an hour or so. We closed the cabin windows but didn’t need to go on a bug hunt as hardly any had gotten in. (Eric was the only one who heard a mosquito that night.) The cabin was still a bit warm for sleeping, but fortunately I slept better than I usually do the first night at a cabin. 

A Quicker if Damper Ride Out

We were up, had a quick breakfast, and were back on the trail before 8AM the next morning. Due to the rain the previous evening, all the brush was wet. Since I was leading, my arms and upper body were soaked within minutes. Oh well. It wasn’t cold and I had dry clothes at the car. Eric went last a few times and said he noticed that the brush was quite a bit less wet after everyone else had gone ahead.  

Unfortunately, the mosquitoes were much more annoying in the morning. I didn’t want to stop much because as soon as I did, I was swarmed. I stopped at the first creek crossing to take pictures of everyone else riding through it, but I almost gave up on them because they were taking too long to get there! 

Fortunately, we could mostly go fast enough to stay ahead of the mosquitoes. But they would catch us on some of the uphills. That’s a good motivator to keep moving! 

We were quite a bit faster on the way out and were back at our car and on our way home by 10AM. It was a great little overnighter with good friends. And my July bikepack challenge was completed, too. 

Now I just need to decide what I want to do for an August bikepack. An overnight in Denali National Park? A night at Seven Mile Lake off the Denali Highway? We will see. The weather and the mosquitoes may dictate my decision.

So, if you want to get out camping and find yourself hesitating at doing something big, consider a smaller outing. (There’s even a Lower Angel Creek Cabin at just 5 miles in.) You’ll be glad you got out to do something. 

Trail Magic on the GDMBR - Jasper to Banff to Jasper

post by Corrine

I was so tired. And I needed food and a place to sleep. I needed help. I needed divine intervention. I needed a trail angel.

I was riding from Jasper to Banff on the Great Divide Mountain Bike Route, the 370-mile northernmost portion of the GDMBR. That day I had ridden over 70 miles with almost 6000 feet of climbing. I had spent a couple of hours in a thunderstorm. I was almost out of food. I was ready to be done for the day. And finally, there it was! The Sunset Outfitters. My goal! I had been riding hard all afternoon to make it there so I could resupply at their store and possibly rent a cabin for the night. 

But. . . the store was closed and nobody was around. What to do? I saw a guy opening a gate to the RV area and asked if he knew where the owners were. He didn’t, but he enlisted another long-term RVer, Michelle, to help me. She took me to the owner’s RV, but nobody was home. My heart sank. 

As Michelle and I walked around, I explained my dilemma. I needed food and I needed a place to spend the night. She said she had some snacks she could give me. And then she offered me some of her leftover pasta dinner. I was so grateful!

Michelle, my trail angel at Sunset Outfitters

I joined her in her RV, and she heated up the pasta and brought out snacks and drinks. And then another neighbor brought over a sandwich for me to take with me the next day. So nice! I asked Michelle if I could camp somewhere. She told me to just stay in one of the empty cabins and figure it out in the morning. She would explain it to the owner. Another relief! 

Belly full, a bit rested, and buoyed by the magic of these trail angels, I headed over to one of the empty cabins for the night. The kindness of strangers can be so uplifting. And it wasn’t the only time it happened on my recent Jasper to Banff to Jasper adventure.

My Route

The Great Divide Mountain Bike Route is a 3000-mile mostly off-pavement route between Canada and Mexico that was created by the Adventure Cycling Association (ACA). I had ridden most of it when I raced the Tour Divide in 2018. That race starts in Banff and basically follows the route of the GDMBR. So, I had not done the Jasper to Banff portion, and it intrigued me. I had heard mixed reviews about it – some said it was great, others said it had too much logging and mining truck traffic. I decided to bike a loop by doing the GDMBR from Jasper to Banff and then cycling back on the paved Icefield Parkway, which I had driven more than once and knew had spectacular scenery. 

The portion of the GDMBR that I rode.  I cycled back to Jasper on highway 93

This trip had been partly inspired by Ryan Van Duzer – a YouTube bikepacker and acquaintance – who lives in Boulder, CO. He was doing the entire GDMBR as part of the ACA’s 50th anniversary, so I timed my trip to coincide with his. And I invited my friend, Danni, along, too. A fun, big bikepacking trip with friends! Unfortunately, Danni had to cancel at the last moment due to a family emergency, and Ryan’s bike was temporarily lost by the airlines. He ended up postponing his start and had to forego the entire Canada portion of the route. But I was ready to go, so I decided to do the Jasper-to-Banff portion by myself. 

I knew the route would be challenging, mainly due to long distances without resupply. There are several 90-mile stretches with no food resupply and the few stores along the route have limited hours. I decided to carry a stove and several freeze-dried meals just in case. You can’t plan on trail magic. Here’s how my trip went. 

Day 1 – Jasper to Hinton 46 miles with 900 feet elevation gain

My first day was relatively easy. I biked to Hinton and stayed at a hotel. I also decided to skip the 9.4-mile Overlander Trail, an expert single-track trail that parallels the highway, since I am not good at technical terrain, especially on a fully loaded bike. It was a good shakedown ride with no fuss or bother. 

Day 2 – Hinton to Brazeau River Campground - 71 miles with 4300 feet elevation gain

I had been warned that there was a lot of truck traffic south of Hinton but to my surprise, only a couple of loaded logging trucks passed me. There had been plenty of rain, but the road wasn’t super muddy, and I was not dusted when they passed. Most of the day I was riding over forested hills with occasional glimpses of the big mountains to the southwest. I pulled up to Brazeau River Campground around dinnertime and was pleased to see another bikepacker there. Tom, from Hawaii, was biking the entire GDMBR in about two months, averaging about 30-40 miles/day. We shared stories over dinner and then it was off to bed.

One of the few logging trucks that passed me

Tom and I eat dinner together in the cooking shelter at the Brazeau River campground

Day 3 – Brazeau River Campground to Ram Falls Campground - 80 miles with 7800 feet elevation gain 

I set my goal to reach Ram Falls Provincial Park on day three. My friend, Janet, had told me to definitely check out this park. This meant an 80-mile day, even though there were earlier places to camp. That was a long, hard day on the bike. I started with several big climbs before getting to the town of Nordegg around lunchtime. This was the last good resupply stop for about 200 miles. 

And I had to get some pie at the recommendation of Dave, a friend of Danni, my friend who had to cancel.  While at the café, I texted Dave, who lives in Banff. (Even though Danni wasn’t coming, Dave had offered me a place to stay when I got to Banff. A trail angel even before the trip started!) 

Mmmm!  Apple pie and ice cream!

While waiting for my lunch and pie, a female paramedic came up and commented on my bike set up. Then she asked if I was Corrine. I looked totally confused. I had never seen her before. But she told me that she was a friend of Dave and was currently working out of Nordegg. Dave had told her I was there, so she stopped by. What a nice surprise! She had lunch with me and although it wasn’t trail magic, it was fun and motivating to talk with a friendly person who also likes to go on adventures.

Jenny, a friend of Dave, surprises me at lunch in Nordegg!

After lunch, the hard day got even harder. I started with a 5-mile climb, most of it with 9-13% grades. My legs were toast, I had no energy, and it was the hottest part of a mostly sunny day. I walked a majority of that hill. It was followed by a nice descent, but then I had two more long steep climbs before the route finally leveled. I made it to Ram Falls Provincial Park at 8:30 PM. I quickly checked out the beautiful falls before I set up camp, made dinner, and got ready for the next day. 

Day 4 – Ram Falls Provincial Park to Sunset Outfitters - 80 miles with 5800 feet elevation gain

Another really tough day with steep climbs. I got caught in a thunderstorm for a couple of hours in the afternoon and got covered in grit from the road. I was running low on food and the only place to resupply was at Sunset Outfitters which was three miles off route. I knew I should stop there to be sure I had  enough food to make it the next 90 miles until the next resupply place. Once again, I was mostly riding through forested hills with occasional open valleys. I was so happy to finally get to the turn off for Sunset Outfitters but then so disappointed that the store wasn’t open and the owner wasn’t around. Thank goodness for Michelle, a true trail angel! 

I had a couple of hours of riding through thunderstorms

Day 5 – Sunset Outfitters to Banff - 107 miles with 5400 feet elevation gain

I wasn’t sure how far to go this day. Should I push all the way to Banff? But that was so long and I’d just had three hard days. Should I go off route to Cochrane at about 55 miles in? I decided to just see how the day went. 

Most of the climbing came in the first 50 miles. Then I had an hour of rain and when that stopped, the headwinds started. Ugh. It wasn’t horrible, but it was demoralizing. My stomach wasn’t doing well. I didn’t feel like eating and nothing I had tasted good. I started bonking as I came down the trunk road towards Highway 1A where I had to make the decision to either turn east off route to Cochrane or west towards Canmore. I was thinking there was no way I could make it all the way to Canmore. 

But then I saw three children up ahead flagging me down. They had a roadside stand selling firewood to campers and had Pepsi and potato chips, too. Those kids were my lifesavers! True trail magic! 

I drank a Pepsi and ate chips and felt instantly revived! New life in my legs. A new attitude after inhaling all the major bikepacking food groups; caffeine, sugar, salt, and fat! I knew I could keep going until I could resupply in Exshaw, still 30 miles away. 

Trail angels

I still hadn’t decided how far I would go, but the scenery kept getting more spectacular, which boosted my spirits. Unfortunately, biking on 1A was not fun. It has no shoulder and a steep ditch. It was not as busy as Canada Highway 1 but busy enough. 

Highway 1A - no shoulder and a steep drop off.  Not great for cycling but at least not too much traffic.

When I reached Exshaw I debated stopping. The town is an industrial place, not all that enticing. And it was less than 15 miles to Canmore, which is a nice mountain town. I used my phone to look for a hotel in Canmore, but the prices were outrageous. And it was only another 15 miles from there to Banff, all on a mostly flat bike path. I had just enough daylight to make it to Banff, even with that slight headwind. And in Banff I could stay at Dave’s place. I decided to go for it. I texted Dave and he was fine with me showing up at any time of day or night. It would be a long day, but a free bed, food, laundry, shower and a friendly face were awaiting me. I could do it. And I did, arriving with the last bit of daylight. 

Arriving in Banff at sunset - 10:30 PM

Day 6 – Rest day in Banff

Dave and Brenda are true trail angels. Besides being friends with Danni, they are also mutual friends with our friends, Jill and Beat. Even after Danni had to bail, Dave offered me his house and to extract me if I had a problem along the way. He texted me with updates, suggestions, and words of encouragement as I was riding. He and Brenda are so welcoming. I took them out for dinner, which really didn’t cover my appreciation for everything they did.

Dave and Brenda - such amazing people and trail angels

After my rest day, I planned to bike the 180 miles back to Jasper on the paved Bow Valley and Icefield Parkways. I thought about doing it over three days but checked the weather forecast which called for persistent rain. I decided to do it in two days and booked one of the last beds at the Rampart Hostel which was about half way. If the rain came, at least I had a dry place to spend the night.

Day 7 – Banff to Rampart Hostel - 94 miles with 4900 feet elevation gain

The day started cloudy but with great views. There was minimal traffic along the Bow Valley Parkway, and I stopped frequently for photos. I made it to Lake Louise by lunchtime. While I ate lunch the sky started to sprinkle which turned into rain that just got heavier and heavier as the day progressed. 

The day ended up being one of the most miserable days I have had on a bike. It was cold (temps in the lower 40’s Fahrenheit), rainy, a bit of a headwind and a lot of climbing up and over a big pass. At the top, I put on all the layers I had except my puffy jacket and sleep clothes, but I still froze on the long, long descent. By the time I arrived at Saskatchewan Crossing I was soaking wet, shivering and my teeth were chattering. I popped into the restaurant to warm up with some soup but then headed back into the rain as I still had 8 miles to the hostel. I was so glad I had made a reservation. I checked in, was given the tour, and then was told there was a wood-fired sauna all ready for use! I quickly unpacked, then headed to the sauna with my roommates and basked in the heat until I was toasty warm. It was just the kind of trail magic I needed after a tough day on the bike.

Wind, rain, cold and climbing but still smiling!

Rampart Hostel - my oasis for the night

My bunkmates, Joshua and Amelie, ready to sauna.  The rooms sleep 6 but only 3 showed up for our room for the night.

A wood-fired sauna never felt so good!

Day 8 – Back to Jasper – 89 miles with 4200 feet elevation gain

At 2 AM it was still pouring rain, but by the time my alarm went off at 6 AM, the rain had stopped. My last day on the bike was phenomenal. Incredible views the whole day. Mountains, glaciers, waterfalls, wildflowers, wildlife. I saw it all. I saw more wildlife than I had the rest of the ride combined. I saw elk, deer, mountain goats and even a black bear right next to the road. Trail magic doesn’t always have to involve humans!

Mountain goats!

Elk!

There was a bit of traffic on the parkway, but it has a good shoulder. Four bikepackers from the UK caught me on the pass and we cycled down to the Icefield Center and had lunch together comparing notes on how miserable the day prior had been. They were riding from Calgary to Vancouver on paved roads and were staying in hotels so had very little gear on their bikes. I was a little envious! 

Lunch with the UK bikepackers

The air got hazy and then smoky as I made my way back to Jasper in the afternoon. The smoke was from wildfires in the Northwest Territories and got worse the farther north I went. I was so glad I hadn’t had to deal with that earlier. I finally arrived in Jasper around dinner time. I celebrated on my own at a local pub. I had done it! The trip was harder than I expected and the hills after the second day really kicked my butt. More than I expected. Was it because I am older? Was it the extra weight I was carrying? Am I not in top form yet after fracturing my hip 4 months ago? Probably all those things. Despite all that, I felt proud that I was still capable of doing hard things and adventuring on my own. 

After dinner, I retrieved my truck and started the long drive back home. I had planned to stop and explore on my way back, but it ended up being cold and rainy, so I just beelined it all the way home, instead, doing the 1800 mile drive in just 3 days. 

If You Plan to Go - My Thoughts About the Jasper-Banff Route

The Jasper to Banff portion of the GDMBR is a mixed bag. There are plenty of provincial campgrounds to camp in and there is plenty of water along the route. (Though I was surprised that the campgrounds didn’t have bear boxes for food. There are bears in the area, so I stashed my food in outhouses or garbage bins for safety.) 

The route is quite remote with minimal resupply places. And many of those resupply places have limited hours. You need to carry plenty of food with you. Or make a lot of miles per day. I rode longer days than I had wanted, partly due to being goal-oriented but mostly due to resupply issues. I didn’t want to carry more weight than I already was. The riding was harder than I expected, too. I didn’t expect as many steep hills in the foothills of the Rockies. The rest of the GDMBR is hard, but I just didn’t expect it on this section for some reason.

I had some traffic in certain areas, especially around 7 in the morning and 4 in the afternoon. I assume this was due to shift changes at the mining and logging places. Other cyclists have experienced lots of big logging trucks, but I didn’t; I guess I just got lucky.

The scenery was nice but not as good as other parts of the GDMBR. There was a lot of riding in forested hills. The Icefield Parkway has more spectacular scenery. Yes, it has car traffic, but it has a good shoulder, and the views are outstanding the entire way. If you want to do the entire GDMBR and want solitude and remote areas, then go for it on the GDMBR route but be prepared to be very self-sufficient. But after having done both, I think taking the Icefield Parkway from Jasper to Banff is the better option.