Solo overnight on the Denali Park Road

I have learned more since going on this trip. It is absolutely not okay to camp anytime of year in Denali without a backcountry permit.  It is important to have one before heading out.  You can get one on line up to 2 weeks before your go.  This is a safety issue so that park rangers know where you are at.  I was in the wrong for going out without a permit.  Please be sure and get a permit before you camp in Denali, even early in the season before the road is officially open. 

I hit the trifecta of great weather, lots of wildlife and Denali being out on my overnight bikepack on the Denali Park road. That almost never happens!

I had planned on biking to Manley Hot Springs this weekend, but the forecast called for 20-25 mph winds north of Fairbanks while the forecast for Denali was partly sunny with 10-15 mph winds. When has the weather ever been better in Denali than here in Fairbanks?  I made a last-minute decision and decided to head south and bike to Wonder Lake instead.  Eric was still recovering from a hip injury, so I went by myself.

I tried to find out if I needed a permit or if it was okay to camp in sight of the road but there were no clear answers.  I know of others who have camped before the bus service started and didn’t get backcountry permits.

I left town early and saw 3 fox even before I got to the park!  I was on the bike and climbing just after 9 AM.  It was fairly warm, plus I had a tail wind! People can still drive to Teklanika this week, so a few cars on the road but not too many since it was still early.  One car slowed down and the people stuck their heads out the window shouting and cheering.  It was none other than Lael Wilcox, Rue Kaladyte, and Christina Grande.  They were going to do a long day bike from Teklanika to Wonder Lake and back.  I figured I’d see them somewhere along the way.  At least I wouldn’t be the only one going past Polychrome.

This ride has a lot of climbing.  First 9 miles up the pavement.  Then the climb out of Savage River, followed by the climb out of Sanctuary.  Then the big climbs start.  Sable Pass, Polychrome Pass, Highway Pass, Stony, and finally Eielson.    6600 feet in 66 miles.  My legs were still tired from last weekend, but I had a tailwind and beautiful scenery to keep me going.

Gorgeous views all day!

Polychrome Pass

The mountain was out all day with just a few clouds moving in during the afternoon.  I saw a couple of moose plus lots of caribou, some crossing the road right in front of me.  Right before I got to Eielson, a ranger stopped to tell me that I couldn’t go past Eielson Visitor Center.  There was a rogue bear that had been causing havoc around Wonder Lake and Kantishna.  It had been breaking into buildings and had no fear of humans. She said I could camp around Eielson if I wanted.  I decided to eat dinner there and make a decision as to what to do.

Moose

Caribou

As I was finishing dinner, the trio of Lael, Rue and Christina showed up and we all took a break, reveling in the amazing views of Denali and planning races that should happen if somebody would just organize them! After they headed back, I found a spot to set up my tent.  Just as I was putting my food away a ranger showed up.  Oh, oh!  He asked if I had a backcountry permit and I answered honestly.  He then gave me a very nice, polite chewing out for not having one. He did say he wouldn’t make me bike all the way back out. And since the buses weren’t running, my tent was okay where it was at.  I apologized profusely.  He was nice about it and thankfully didn't write me up.  After he left, I had the place totally to myself.  The clouds cleared and Denali was out all night and the next morning.

Rue, Lael, and Christina at Eielson

Not a bad campsite for the night

I got up really early to head back before the winds picked up again (they had died down a bit overnight and I knew I would be riding into the wind on the way back).  The views of Denali kept me company all the way to Stony.

Breakfast view

How can you not smile when the sun is shining and Denali is out!

Another great day in the park

There was a bear on top of Stony but far enough away that I wasn’t too concerned.   I saw more caribou and lots and lots of snowshoe hares and ground squirrels.  As I started the climb up the back side of Sable Pass, I looked up and saw 2 bears very close to the road.  I stopped and waited, and waited, and waited.  I blew my whistle but they didn’t even look up.  I yelled and they just ignored me.  I ate lunch and peeled some layers.  They kept moving closer to the road and then started walking down the road towards me. I backed up and moved down the side road towards the E. Fork cabin.  Finally, an hour later they moved to the other side of the road, just far enough away I felt sort of comfortable passing them.  They barely looked up as I pedaled uphill as fast as I could. That adrenaline rush got me all the way back up to Sable Pass.

2 bears right next to the road!

Sheep off of Polychrome Pass

The rest of the ride was uneventful except for the stream of traffic coming out to Teklanika on a sunny Saturday.  With the headwind, the cars were all throwing up dust which was miserable to ride in.  I was never so happy to hit the pavement.  After one more climb, it was 9 miles downhill and back to my vehicle.

A train on the trestle bridge!

What a great couple of days!  I really timed it right for an overnight bikepack in Denali.  But next time I'll be sure and get a back country permit first!