A Mostly Solo Trip in the Whites

Post by Corrine

Was I really having second thoughts about going on a winter bike trip alone?

I have spent many, many days bikepacking alone. Mostly in the summer, some in winter. But now I was facing a solo multi-day winter cabin trip alone and I was hesitating. It had been a long time since I had done a solo winter trip. What was the problem?

The trip was supposed to have been a 4-day, 3-night bike trip around the 100-mile loop in the White Mountains National Recreation Area with Eric and an acquaintance, Ryan, from Colorado who I’ve been trying to get up here for the past 3 years to do a spring cabin trip. I thought this was the year he was coming but then he bailed.

And then Eric decided he wanted to do the 50K Sonot Kkaazoot ski race one more time. He was in good skiing shape from having done the Birkebeiner and the Tanana River Challenge races, so this was the year to do it. But the Sonot was two days after this trip was to end, so he decided it wouldn’t be smart to do a big bike trip right before his race.

Eric out on the Tanana River Challenge race course with Jane 

Eric talked about just doing the first night with me to Crowberry Cabin, but then he thought about it and decided against it. Going to Crowberry and back is still a significant effort. He had just done the Tanana River Challenge on Saturday. And he also had a lot of work to get done. So, he bailed on the whole trip. If I was going to go, it would just be me.

Solo Uncertainties

I love doing trips by myself, or at least I used to. But I’ve gotten so used to doing trips with Eric that I was a little nervous going alone this time. Could I fix any mechanicals? Could I do all the cabin chores by myself? Would I be able to deal with any challenges? Would I be lonely? 

I wouldn’t really be alone as lots of people are out in the Whites in March. And I already knew that friends, John and Karen, were doing a 5-night trip with snowmachine support while I was out there. They had sent me their itinerary which included a night at Yeager’s Cabin on the second day of my trip. 

I started to think about other itineraries. Instead of doing the whole 100-mile loop solo, I could spend Monday night at Crowberry Cabin by myself, then Tuesday night with John and Karen at Yeager’s, then a solo night at Caribou Bluff Cabin on Wednesday night. That would be one night with friends and two solo nights. 

I let John and Karen know that I might possibly show up Tuesday night at their cabin and they were all for it. They even offered to leave a propane canister at Caribou Bluff for me so I wouldn’t have to carry so much fuel. So, I packed up and prepared to leave Monday morning to head to Crowberry Cabin by myself.

But Monday morning dawned cold and breezy with temps around zero. Way below average for this time of year. This would be amazing weather for January but not for spring. I decided to wait a bit for the temperature to warm up but as I did, the wind picked up, too. I was not motivated. I didn’t want to be cold. And I was tired from having done a long bike ride with lots of climbing two days previously. More hesitation. And I had already planned to bike to Crowberry that coming Saturday with friends so we could watch the White Mountains 100 racers come by on Sunday. Did I really want to bike to Crowberry twice in one week? Not really. 

The hesitations were piling up like snowdrifts in my path. The morning slipped away as I procrastinated and questioned myself. Why couldn’t I get out the door? Was I afraid of going alone? Was I only up for fair weather adventures? Was I done with pushing myself or was I just tired from a lot going on the last couple of weeks? Was I turning into a wimp? Should I go or just stay home?

The day wore on. It got later and later. Finally, I decided to just stay home. 

I immediately felt relief. It was the right decision. Instead of biking to Crowberry, I watched a movie and read a book and was generally very, very lazy. It felt so good to have a low-key day. But at the back of my mind, I did worry if I was turning into a sloth. 

The day never really warmed up and it got even windier. I definitely made the right decision. At least I told myself that. I would leave the next day. Even if the weather was crappy. Even if I still felt tired. I had something to prove here.

Fun with Friends

While I didn’t go to Crowberry, I still had a reservation at Windy Gap Cabin. But there was no way I wanted to bike the 40 miles to Windy Gap in one day. And I still had the option of staying with John and Karen at Yeager’s Cabin, just a 15-mile day. I liked that option. I messaged them to let them know I was coming. 

That ended up being a great decision. The trails were in great shape, and I made decent time. Even the last steep mile up to the cabin was bikeable. John and Karen were already at the cabin, and it was toasty warm. Karen had driven the snowmachine hauling a sled, while John had bike-jored (his dog Charley pulling him) on his e-bike. It was so fun to spend the evening and next morning with them. 

I can see the benefits of snowmachine support. John and Karen had everything. An electric chainsaw to cut firewood. Extra lights and propane for the Coleman stove and lantern. Extra batteries for the e-bike. A small generator to charge the chain saw and the batteries. And a full-sized cooler full of food. With pots and pans to cook everything. Even a red-checked tablecloth. 

Crackers with jam and cream cheese for hors d’oeuvres? Salmon alfredo for dinner? English muffins with sausage and cheese for breakfast? Yes, please. No Mountain House freeze-dried dinners! I could get used to this luxury!

So many food options!

After a filling dinner, we played games together and told stories. It was a lot of fun. If I had been by myself, I would have just read my book and gone to bed early. That would have been pleasant, but not nearly as fulfilling. 

Playing Iota, sort of a combination of Set and Dominoes.  Very fun!

The next morning, the temperature was still quite cold. We decided to wait for it to warm up and played more games. I tried to redeem myself at Farkle, and I smashed the competition in Iota. While we played, the sun rose and warmed the air, so we finally got out on the trail. John and Karen headed off on a short jaunt to Lee’s Cabin while I had 14 miles to reach Caribou Bluff in the opposite direction. The trails were still in great shape with almost no overflow and there was enough climbing to keep me warm despite a headwind and temperatures in the teens. 

Finally, Solo Time

I was happy to arrive at the cabin and find it still warm with lots of firewood, probably enough for a week. But I still went out and sawed down a few dead standing spruce trees to “appease the cabin gods,” as Eric says. But even after doing all the cabin chores, it was only 3 PM so I went for a walk. I followed ski tracks leading across the valley and up the first hill. I was pleasantly pleased that the snow was packed and windblown enough that I could walk on the ski tracks without breaking through. I climbed way up to where the tracks stopped, and the skiers turned around to carve some turns back down. The skiing did not look great, with breakable crust on the snow, but it was good for hiking. I had great views looking down on the cabin and over into the valley where Fossil Creek Trail heads to Windy Gap Cabin. 

Looking back across the valley to the cabin

Following ski tracks up the mountain

By the time I made it back to the cabin, it was time for dinner and a quiet night. I enjoyed spending the evening by myself. I was happy to find that I still enjoyed solo time. After leaving Yeager’s Cabin, I had seen nobody all day. I liked stopping and just listening to the quiet and being alone with my thoughts. I never felt the need to listen to music or podcasts or audiobooks on my phone. It was peaceful and beautiful. Although I did miss Eric when I was the one who had to get up in the early morning to start the fire in a cold cabin. But after starting it, I got back into my sleeping bag and slept some more until the cabin was nice and warm.

I had a leisurely breakfast, once again waiting for the sun to come up over the mountains and warm things up. It was still around 0F degrees, but once the sun rose, I headed back the 28 miles to the trailhead. 

Back Home – Tired and Refreshed

The trails were still good on the way back, but my legs and body not so much. I was tired and moved slower than usual, especially up the hills. It finally warmed up to above freezing as I pushed my bike up the Wickersham Wall. I stopped multiple times to shed layers, cool off, and catch my breath. Sure, I was slow, but it didn’t matter. I was in no rush and didn’t have to keep up with anybody else.

Unlike the previous day, I saw lots of people on my way out. Skiers from Yeager’s Cabin. Missy Schwarz out on a mega bike ride and then back to Eleazar’s Cabin for the night. A large group of skiers and bikers headed to Lee’s. And several groups of snowmachiners coming and going. Everybody enjoying another beautiful spring day in the Whites. We are so lucky to have this playground in our backyard. Thanks to BLM for maintaining this amazing wilderness area.

Missy out enjoying the day on her bike. 

On my drive home, I contemplated my weekend. I was glad I had gotten myself out the door on a little adventure. It had been a good mix of social and solo time. Just being out in the wilderness, whether alone or with others, is good for my soul.